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A dye day, start to finish

01 / 05

[dry pigment going down on the blanks]

[ice packed over the whole run]

[hour three, melt water running color]

[the rinse, first look at the break]

[the line dry, whole batch hanging]

dry pigment first, matched to the city

[raw cotton blanks, stacked]

01 — The blank

It starts white

Heavyweight cotton, grown and sewn in the US. We buy them undyed and keep them that way until a city gives us a reason not to.

02 — The freeze

Ice over pigment

Dry pigment goes down first, matched to the city's palette. Then ice, packed over the whole thing. From here on the melt is in charge — we just keep the room cold enough to make it slow.

[ice packed over pigment, close]

[melt water running color, hour three]

03 — The melt

Where the color breaks

As the ice melts, the pigment splits into the colors it was mixed from. That's the break — the marbling you see at the seams. It can't be repeated, which is why no two pieces match.

Roughly 14 hours, if we've done our job.

[first rinse, color holding]

The Reference Wall

What we pinned up before we mixed anything

Every journey starts as a wall of photos, swatches, and things we shouldn't have brought back through customs. Belgrade's looked like this.

[kafana matchbook, flat]

kafana matchbook, kept

[pigment jars in a row]

pigment tests, jars 4 through 9

[tram photo, motion blur]

tram 2, the one that loops the city

[fabric swatches held up]

swatches against the sky, feb 11

[thread cones, stacked]

thread cones, kafana amber

[spritz on a marble table]

spritz glass, the drawing started here

[magazine tear, gray towers]

blok grays, torn from a magazine

[embroidery hoop test]

first embroidery test, rejected

From souvenir to stitch

A thing you'd have brought home anyway, drawn once, stitched forever

[the souvenir itself, photographed on the trip]

01 — the souvenir

02 — the drawing

03 — the stitch